When last we spoke, I had just made it to Phantom Ranch (14 miles in and at an elevation of 2,480 ft.). This was the first place where we had actual bathrooms, instead of composting/septic ones. This WOULD have been marvelous, except that the waterline damage meant there was no water to run them. Ha! Instead we had to fill and carry buckets of water from the pump (which was unaffected) with us to flush the toilets. Really, this was more amusing than irritating, and I was still grateful for a 'real' restroom.
We made our way to the ranch house where I purchased a bag of ice, and then failed to remember to send out my postcards. For this oversight, I am sincerely sorry. I clearly owe you one postcard, mailed by mule train. I will do my best to rectify this on a future trip to the canyon, something which is now necessitated by said mail failure. We packed our camelbaks full of ice and then refilled them with water. Then I sat my happy butt down at the base of that big tree, took off my shoes and socks and elevated my feet.
I had a long and leisurely lunch, eating the heaviest foods in my pack so I wouldn't have to carry the uphill (an orange, some tuna, pringles, a cliff builder bar, and some coconut water). For the record, I still believe coconut water to be a foul and vaguely poisonous substance, but I also swear it is the secret to surviving long hikes. The only one I can stomach is Vita Coco with orange, but even that is distasteful at best. I drank about a third of mine and added the rest of it to my camelbak. I gave my second one to Antoline.
We spent some time chatting with other hikers, drying out our socks and feet, and working on blister prevention. At this point I was still blister free, which was amazing, because downhill is usually the roughest on my feet. I did have several hot spots, and a couple of places that I was positive would end up blistering before the day was through, but I had anticipated as much. All my toes overlap so pressure blisters are inevitable.
We checked in with one of the hike leaders who made sure we were still feeling good, eating enough, and drinking water. He was in radio contact with our other leader who was up on the Devil's Corkscrew checking in with other hikers. A couple of people were struggling with the heat, and several people had been vomiting, but whether they were in our group or not was not clear.
I am convinced that salt pills add to nausea and vomiting, and I'm glad that I didn't take any. My dad (who knows all the things) said they gave him salt pills in Vietnam and that they always made him vomit. Ick. Since I am basically a clone of my dad, I firmly believe they would have made me vomit also. I'll just stick to salty foods and/or salt packets.
We left Phantom Ranch at 12:50 pm. The temperature was up well over the 100 degree mark, but I was so thrilled to have almost reached the river it barely registered. We headed down the River Trail along Bright Angel Creek toward the Colorado River.
It wasn't long before the Silver Bridge was in sight.
We had officially reached the bottom of the canyon!!! We had come an amazing 14.4 miles and were at an elevation of 2,400 ft. Crossing the bridge was inexplicably exhilarating. The water level was really low, but it was a beautiful shade of aquamarine.
From here we started the hike up and out of the canyon via the Bright Angel Trail.
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